Kadano.net //SSBM / GCC Shop

Base prices and invoice process

The 75€ servicing, deep-cleaning, inspection and warranty insurance fee is charged per controller. This is to ensure that I can always afford to repair your controller ordered from me.

During the first six months after purchase, I do so entirely on my own cost, refunding your return shipping costs (up to 20€). (A partial exception to this is returning a controller after two months or more for analog stick performance issues from heavy usage within this timespan – in this case, I will still replace the potentiometers on warranty and return-ship the controller on my costs, but I will not refund your shipping costs to me.)

After these six months, I charge a flat service fee of 75€ per controller plus 15-25€ for international tracked & insured priority shipping. If there is only little needing to be reworked / cleaned, I'll give an appropriate discount.

The service fee of 75€ also applies if you send in a controller. It also includes deep-cleaning and electrical inspection, however if the controller was previously worked on by someone else, neither restoring those modifications nor undoing them (in case of faulty installation) is covered. For controllers that were stored in hazardous environments, such as in rooms that were regularly smoked in, there's an extra charge of 30€ for cleaning the residue from that with extra precautions.

Furthermore, if your controller has complicated defects, like PCB breaks from blunt impact that cause the controller to not work properly, I will charge an additional fee of up to 40€ to restore the controller functionality. This fee will only be applied if there is a complicated issue that takes me several hours to repair.


In addition to the 75€ service fee, if you order a controller from me, I charge a base controller price (depending on the model and condition as given below), prices for the individual modifications ordered and shipping costs.

The purchase contract is agreed on as soon as you have paid the invoice that I sent you. From the date of payment, I finish and ship every order within two calendar weeks. Usually, it takes 1-2 more weeks afterwards for the parcel to arrive, so expect to have the controller no later than one month after making the payment. The contract is considered fulfilled on the day that the controller is delivered to you in person, which is also from when on the 6 months of warranty count.
For payments, I accept bank transfer in EUR (for example, using TransferWise, if you are living in a country with a different currency) and credit card (through Wave invoice / Stripe payment). For local customers, paying with cash when picking up the controller is also possible.
I do accept PayPal payments, however due to their fees being higher, there is a surcharge of 2.5%.

As a small courtesy, I can put a small hand-written label on top of the controller as well as to the plug as an identifier, to prevent other people from accidentally confusing your controllers with theirs.
For doubles, this also helps with unplugging the correct player (if one team stays on the setup, for example).
I don't charge anything for this service. If you want me to do so, please include a note of the tag that you want me to write there. The labels withstand wet cleaning yet are easy to remove without residue.
In case the loose zone of the control stick exceeds 1 value in either axis, I will also denote the loose zone ranges in the format [horizontal|vertical] with the direction you should use for presetting the calibration.
See image on the right for an example. This is only relevant if you order any custom notches that need the extra precision from consistent calibration presetting.

Controller editions I have in stock

The deciding factor for the controller price is the PCB with its cable. Front and back shell colors can be exchanged for +10€ each, except for JP08 white (15€) and rare expensive colors like Emerald Blue (+20€ each per front or back shell of that color). Soldering on a different cord is +10€ (default colors) / +20€ (Emerald Blue).
Every used controller is cleaned thoroughly so that it's free from grease or dirt and looks as close to new as possible (save for the unavoidable few scratches).
For some controllers below, I have put example condition photos. Of all the controllers with photos linked I have also measured their button resistances. You can find them in this spreadsheet. If they are grayed out at the bottom, they have been sold already.

[S0] Mandatory service & warranty fee [75€ per controller]

For every controller, whether you order it from me or send it in for me to work on, I charge a service fee of, at the time, 75€. This fee covers my basic service, including but not limited to: deep-cleaning the controller, electrical inspection with an oscilloscope, extensive report of the state of the controller and its problems, detailed email correspondence in order to work out the controller configuration that works best for you.

When you choose a brand new in box controller from me, the S0 fee is reduced to 50€, as no deep-cleaning is required.

Only on controllers that I have worked on before, the service fee also includes replacing all potentiometers that show signs of degradation with new ones (S1a). On controllers sent in for servicing, you can have me replace all 6 potentiometers (4 for the sticks and 2 for the triggers) with new ones regardless of performance for an extra 20€. To order this, please list [S0b] in your request list.

As part of the S0 fee, you get 6 months of full warranty. In case anything about the controller does not work as advertised or promised, you are eligible to have me repair the controller to proper function, all covered by me.
Exempt from this are damages caused by the user by mistreatment, like spilling fluids on the controller or throwing it against a hard surface.

If the degradation in the controller function stems from excessive wear on the controller by the user, like playing more than 20 hours per week with high input speed and strong force, covering repair of worn potentiometers on warranty will only be partial. My work on it and the return shipping to you will be free, but your return shipping costs to me will only be covered within the first two months in this case.

[S0Phob] PhobGCC mainboard upgrade service & warranty fee [190-220€ per controller]

For customers who want to use a PhobGCC mainboard, I install those both for sent-in controllers and for controllers bought from me. For this service, I charge a service fee of 220€ (instead of the 75€ for a regular mainboard controller). Going with a type 3 controller as a base is strongly recommended. The 220€ price includes new trigger potentiometers, the full Phob mainboard (2.0.2 or 2.0.5) and mouse-click Z switches. (If regular Z switches are preferred, the Phob upgrade price is 190€.)

PhobVision installations are also available for +50€ (direct mount) / +30€ (reference). With the reference installation, there's a cable going to the black rumble motor holder that needs to be unplugged manually every time you open the controller, right after lifting up the backshell just a bit. With my direct mount installation, the cable is glued to the back shell and automatically unplugs when you lift up the back shell, so the risk of breaking the cables when removing the backshell too strongly or too quickly is eliminated.

For anyone who's interested in buying a Phob controller, I recommend asking the modder they want to buy from for photos of the solder points of the last controller they worked on. You can find a gallery of Phob controllers I made here, and here is a post from fellow trusted PhobGCC modder Nuckels with some more example photos of what looks good and what's inacceptable.

Mouse click Z switch options and their average click resistances: Kailh mini blue (48gf), Omron D2LS-21 (55gf), Kailh mini TP grey (58gf), Omron D2LS-11 (121gf). For reference: stock Z switch only is 40 gf, typical effective resistance (with spring that I remove for mouse click Z): 250 gf.

[S1] Potentiometer replacement / PODE removal [4-6€ per axis]

PODE in strong degrees usually makes inputs like pivots, backdash out of crouch and C-stick inputs less consistent. Severely worn potentiometers can even drift, making playing very frustrating and borderline impossible. By opting to have your potentiometers replaced for new original potentiometers, you get rid of PODE. For more information on PODE and how degrading potentiometers affect your input, please check out this quick diagram on Twitter and this longer information page on potentiometers, their degradation, capacitance and snapback.

Opting for S1 also means that the controller doesn't get high 1-frame backdash consistency on vanilla Melee, unless coupled with an Arduino installation, as without UCF or Arduino, those can only be accomplished by PODE.

Also, snapback will be present initially (until PODE develops), since that can only occur 'naturally' from PODE. So if you use aerial neutral-B at all, I recommend to couple this mod with a modular capacitor mod (S2b, S2c or S2d (see lower section)).
I offer four subtypes:

• [S1a] [5€ per axis] New black Noble potentiometer: lifespan 6-32 months
• [S1b] [4€ per axis] Lightly used black Noble potentiometer: lifespan 4-12 months
• [S1c] [4€ per axis] New gray Panasonic potentiometer: lifespan 6-32 months (doesn't develop PODE like Noble potentiometers as it wears down, making pivots and C—stick inputs stay consistent for longer, but will suddenly start drifting and become unplayable afterwards)

The lifespan depends mainly on how much you actually move the control stick. If you play 10 hours per week or more with a movement-intensive playstyle, you have to expect the potentiometers to be mostly worn out by the lower end of the lifespan estimate (4-6 months).

In general, I recommend having the potentiometers replaced only on controllers that you send in to me that you've either been using for a year or more or that you've been using heavily for 6 months or more.

Since potentiometers are the controller part that gets worn down the most from usage – like chain and brakes of a bicycle – I only give a 3-months warranty on their function. Replacing all faulty potentiometers with new black Noble ones is part of the 75€ servicing fee on controllers that were originally bought from me and last serviced by me.

S1LR: The analog sliders of the L and R triggers can also be worn out and develop drifting, which causes issues like the shield fading away slowly on unpressing or getting accidental rolls after L-cancels.
Trigger potentiometer replacements are 6€ each. I only solder Noble ones (white wiper, black dots; leftmost in the picture on the right), as these have the longest lifespan.

[S2] Snapback removal by capacitor mod [5-40€]

Due to the stick knob having physical mass, it's technically completely normal for there to be snapback when doing flick-type inputs. The controllers that don't have snapback without being modified only do so because of PODE (potentiometer degradation), which is a technical malfunction.
The only proper way without side-effects of removing snapback is the capacitor mod. I offer four different sub-types:

1. [S2a][5€ per axis] SMD installation:
   Not user-serviceable (unless you have a high-quality soldering iron and are experienced in using it properly), permanent installation. Not generally recommended for this reason.
   The only possible case in which this is a good option is if you are set about never opening the controller, always sending it to me for servicing if there is a problem. Typically, the parts that get faulty first are potentiometers. By stepping down your capacitance gradually, you can keep your potentiometers at ideal performance (no snapback yet no noticeable input drifting or delay) for roughly twice as long (4-9 months vs. 6-18 months).
   For more information than given below, please refer to the S2 information subpage. I also wrote an even more detailed guide about capacitor mod installations as well as how they are affected by potentiometer issues here.
   
2. [S2b][15€ per axis, 20€ for both horizontal and vertical] Modular female jumper wire installation:
   Easily user-serviceable, only a tripoint screwdriver is required (simple one added for free, or a high-quality magnetized one for +3€). Here, you can then step up or down from the default capacitance I insert accordingly to the amount of snapback and PODE measured with my oscilloscope as PODE decreases or increases.
   S2b for both axes is the default recommendation if you want something simple and affordable that works. S2c and S2d below are more luxury versions that can be adjusted by you more quickly and easily, with no hassle of having to store spare capacitors. But beyond that and, with S2d, the benefit of not needing to hold X+Y+Start, they still do the same thing.
   
   
3. [S2d] [40€ for both axes together] Multi-switch installation 10x, no-reset circuit:
   Much easier to adjust for the user than the legacy S2b installation: A very wide range of effective capacitances can be covered by coupling them additively by flipping individual switches, for covering varying amounts of snapback and PODE. Has the advantage of not having to pull capacitors in and out. Pre-printed professional looking boards with an integrated No-Reset Circuit that I came up with in early 2020 that fixes initial calibration so that you don't need to hold X+Y+Start after plugging the controller into a console, unlike the more simple capacitor installations.
   In general, I recommend this to customers with some technical understanding of controllers, capacitors and PODE, who are likely to bring their tripoint screwdriver everywhere to performing slight adjustments on the go.
   
   
4. [S2e][new in 2022!][45€ for both axes together] Multi-switch installation 10x, no-reset & modular design with front wiring:
   A modified version of S2d that has several improvements. The wiring now goes to the front, so if you plan to solder new potentiometers by yourself, you won't need to move the four wires out of the way and resolder them every time you replace the potentiometers. Additionally, the snapback module can be completely disabled or exchanged (in case the switches turn faulty, which is rare but not impossible) without soldering as it is snapped in place to the base module.
   Finally, there's a daughter module slot into which you can snap extra function modules, such as resistance path daughterboards that accomplish the same functionality as "heartbeat" modules, which is supposed to extend the effective functional lifespan of a given set of potentiometers. If future research shows that different schematics are more beneficial, you can upgrade to those easily as they will support the same pinout.
   Please note that these resistance modules are still in the experimental stage and I can't guarantee that you'll find their effect beneficial. Right now this is mainly a feature for people who like to play around with different settings, more testing is needed to confirm that effective potentiometer lifespan is really extended. You can find a short condensed version of my testing results so far in one of the photos of my Etsy listing of these modules, and a longer version in my Google photos album (annotated).

Unmodified original triggers have several issues that cause problems both for long-term hand health and for performance in Melee.
While below I list the individual modifications I can apply and their prices, I also have a longer trigger recommendation document that explains ideal combinations of them more thoroughly. I recommend you to check it out and read through it before sending me an order request.

To expand the detailed descriptions of the individual mods I offer, click on the expand text below.

[D1] Control-stick-type stick knob (third party), replaces C-stick [3€]

Useful for thenar grip (doing aerials with the bottom part of your thumb on the C-stick). Your original C-stick knob will be in the box too, of course.

[D2a] Rumble motor deactivation [2€]

[D2b] Rumble motor removal (decreases weight) [2€]

[D3] Tripoint screwdriver: simple (red transparent) [1€] / high quality [4€]

With every modification that requires occasional internal adjustments by the user, you can either get the cheaper one for free or the higher quality one for 3€.
In the picture, you can see how they differ. The high quality one has a more sturdy tip and a more comfortable handle that makes it much easier to take the screws out quickly.

[D4] Fine tweezers [5€]

Fine tweezers are useful for replacing trigger parts, especially click domes (B5) and click elevation spacers (B2b). If you are replacing potentiometers by yourself, they are also ideal for unclipping them from the stickbox so that they can be desoldered and removed.
For replacing trigger click domes, they are not strictly necessary – even with just a tripoint screwdriver, you can replace them without needing to disassemble the trigger mechanism (see video below). However, faster and easier is to use fine tweezers.

[D5] Screw replacement [2€]

By default, controllers are shipped with their default screws: 6x tripoint for the outer shells and 4x PH1 (Philips size 1) for the triggers.
The original trigger screws are of relatively low quality and easily wear out, especially when using screwdrivers that are too small or of low quality. Once screws are completely worn out, removing them is a massive pain, so you should avoid it getting to this point.
If you plan on undoing the trigger screws every now and then, be it to deep-clean the controller or to replace the trigger springs, upgrading the screws to more sturdy ones can be a good idea.
For 2€, I replace the four black PH1 screws for silver high-quality tripoint screws. These can be turned with the same tripoint screwdrivers as you use for the 6 shell screws, which is practical as you then only need a single screwdriver. (The high-quality yellow ones I am selling are ideal for this.)

Alternatively, under the shortcode D5b, I also offer instead replacing the 6 tripoint screws for PH1 (Philips / + shape) ones, also for 2€. This can be a good idea if you already have a good PH1 screwdriver that you prefer using (I recommend Wiha PicoFinish 261P PH1).

[E1] Button remapping [15-30€]

Assigns a physical button to a different in-game button press. I can also assign light-press L / R to digital inputs or digital buttons to specific analog inputs. This is a bit more expensive because more work is involved, so it's 30€ for that.
Note that digital→analog inputs that trigger stick inputs will only work if the corresponding stick is in neutral position while pressing the button.
Specify in this way: E1[light press R press causes Z input, A press causes Y input].
With E1[full press R causes analog press R], you can make a controller use the click input of the controller for shielding and airdodging in Smash 4 & Ultimate. This is available as a regular remap (15€) or as a double bind (full press R causes digital and analog press R) for 30€. The latter allows you to have the tactile click sensation trigger a shield / airdodge in both Melee and Smash 4 / Ultimate, for maximum flexibility.
Digital-digital remapping, like Z<->X, can be done as a toggle, so you can always easily revert it with the flick of a switch. Going for a toggle installation is an extra 15€

[E2a] Arduino adapter cable with logic converter [40€]

As an adapter cable, the Arduino functionality can very easily be removed in case that's ever needed. It can thus be used with any controller you like rather than being bound to a single controller.

[E2b] Arduino installation with logic converter [60-80€]

Installation of an Arduino, electrically connected with enamelled copper wires and mechanically connected with hot glue and wooden sticks for stability (preventing mechanical strain on the cables of a loosely inserted Arduino ruining the wire solder points). By default, I recommend the installation with a switch that allows completely disabling the Arduino (80€). When the switch is flipped to off, the controller will function 100% like if the Arduino wasn't there, which can be easily confirmed by the Arduino's lights not even being on. Since this installation is more complicated to do in a way that still allows replacing potentiometers for maintenance, I have to charge more for this installation than simply installing the Arduino as always-on without a switch (60€).

Mayflash VGA005 (cap-modded) [40€]

The Mayflash VGA 005 is one of the most practical options to get 480p VGA signals from your Wii. That in turn allows you to play on CRT PC monitors in 480p with excellent clarity, which is less fatiguing for the eyes and sharper than typical 480i CRT TVs. It also allows you to use a single CRT monitor for both console play and netplay – ideally you use a CRT monitor with two input ports.
It's currently out of stock everywhere, however I still have a few pieces in overstock where I have already replaced a capacitor to fix the problem it has by default (going black for a second or two whenever the in-game picture transitions from bright to black).

Various rare 480p VGA distributing, amplifying and recording devices

From back when I used to host tournaments at my place and had a versatile installation for optimal lagless 480p console play, I have several useful devices left that I now let go off. If you intend to set up a high quality lagless console station, either for use by yourself and friends or for tournament use, feel free to ask me for advice in which parts you'd best buy.
Most of these have been imported by me from the US at high costs. As such, some of them might be more interesting to people in Europe as they can be found for affordable prices on ebay.com, yet with prohibitive shipping costs to Europe. (Example: Extron PA 250 for 19 USD + 76 USD shipping to Europe.)

• Extron MVX 84 (50€): VGA input-output matrix switch. Powered by AC supporting 100-240V. MSRP 1990 USD. Allows assigning 8 VGA and audio inputs in any way you like to 4 VGA and audio outputs. As such, it can be used to distribute Wii / Gamecube console video and audio signals to multiple CRT or LCD monitors, VGA capture cards and amplifying devices (to increase the brightness on older CRT monitors that have become too dim when connecting directly). Has an RS232 input so that you can remotely reassign inputs to certain outputs or recall saved configurations.
• Extron MVX 88 (100€): VGA input-output matrix switch. Powered by AC supporting 100-240V. MSRP 2990 USD. Allows assigning 8 VGA and audio inputs in any way you like to 8 VGA and audio outputs. As such, it can be used to distribute Wii / Gamecube console video and audio signals to multiple CRT or LCD monitors, VGA capture cards and amplifying devices (to increase the brightness on older CRT monitors that have become too dim when connecting directly). Has an RS232 input so that you can remotely reassign inputs to certain outputs or recall saved configurations.
• Extron PA 250 (40€): VGA (RGBHV / 5 BNC) peaking and brightness amplifier. Powered by AC supporting 100-240V. MSRP 870 USD. Increases VGA brightness / contrast levels for making CRTs much brighter. If you connect it to a VGA device, you'll need a 5BNC to VGA cable, which I sell for 5€ each.
• Extron CVC 200 (70€): YPbPr / component (3 BNC) to RGBHV (5 BNC) VGA converter. Powered by AC supporting 100-240V. MSRP 1070 USD. Higher picture quality than Mayflash VGA005. As all the other Extron devices, these were used in professional video and broadcasting studios, so the quality is far above consumer level. If you want to get 480p VGA from your Wii in the highest quality, so that you can connect it to CRT PC monitors or similar, this is the best choice to my knowledge.
• StarTech PEXHDCAP (Yuan SC500N1-L/DVI) (50€): YPbPr / DVI / VGA / HDMI capture card (with audio) for desktop PCs (PCIe connection). Supports 240p to 1080i60 / 1080p30. One of the few VGA capture cards available for affordable prices. Two pieces available.

Deodorant cream

Prevents sweat stench from bacterial apocrine sweat break-down for 2-5 days (or less if you wash the cream off earlier). Useful for preventing body odour even when at a tournaments where showering is not possible or practical (due to long queues or distances, for example). For more details, please refer to the subpage.
Offered with different scents (perfume oils) or, alternatively, without any scent (faint smell of the natural oils used then).

Available in different consistency editions: 18C, 20C, 25C and 28C. The consistency will be ideal at the respective room temperature, for example the 25C edition is just right at about 24-30°C room temperature, but tends to be too hard in cold rooms in the winter (16-20°C).

Sizes and prices:

• 20g jar: 6€
• 40g jar: 10€
• 60g jar: 14€
• 100g jar: 22€
• 130g jar: 28€